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The following
information pertains to lawn care:
Table of Contents:
-
Will the
applications damage my flowers,
garden, or shrubs?
-
Will the
applications have any harmful affects
on people or pets?
-
Will rainfall
ruin the effectiveness of the
application?
-
Why are repeat
applications of weed control
necessary during the year?
-
Why do you only
guarantee 90-98% crabgrass control?
-
When is the
optimum time to apply the Early
Spring Application?
-
Why don't you
control Tall Fescue and other
perennial grasses?
-
How do I pay?
-
Why do you use
more costly, slow release Nitrogen
while your competitors use cheaper,
fast release Nitrogen?
-
Why do you
apply dry, granular
insecticide?
-
Do you control
fungus diseases?
-
When should I
reseed my lawn?
-
Should I
aerate or verticut my
lawn?
-
Do I need to be
at home when you make applications?
-
Is grub
control a part of your regular
program?
-
Do I need to
sign a new agreement each year?
-
Do I need a
winter fertilizer application?
Q: Will the
applications damage my flowers, garden, or
shrubs?
A:
NO, we
employ full-time trained lawn
applicators certified by the Kansas
Department of Agriculture. Weed control
is applied 6"-12" away from flowers,
gardens or shrubs. You will have a border
of weeds in these areas.
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Q: Will the applications have any harmful
affects on people or pets?
A:
It is our
opinion, that when used according to
label directions, lawn care products
pose no unreasonable risk to man or the
environment. To further reduce risk,
please
remain
off lawn until weed control is dry.
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Q: Will rainfall ruin the effectiveness of
the application?
A:
Rain
actually helps the fertilizer,
insecticide and pre-emergent annual
grass controls by activating them.
Broadleaf weed control is not reduced by
rain unless heavy rainfall occurs
immediately following an application.
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Q: Why are repeat applications of weed
control necessary during the year?
A:
Broadleaf
weed control kills only weeds that are
up and actively growing. They do not
prevent weeds from germination.
Broadleaf weeds geminate at various
times of the year depending on their
life cycle (warm season vs. cool season
weeds) and favorable germinating
conditions. Also, certain hard to kill
weeds require more than one application
for effective control.
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Q: Why do you only guarantee 90-98%
crabgrass control?
A:
Raking, sodding, pets digging,
earthworm activity, etc., will break the
pre-emergent barrier we have applied.
Crabgrass control is also lost
in bare areas and with poor mowing
practices.
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Q: When is the optimum time to apply the
Early Spring Application?
A:
Our program
has been designed to give you the same
superior results, whether the first
application is made March 15th, May 15th
or anytime between.
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Q: Why don't you control tall fescue and
other perennial weeds?
A:
There is no
effective control for perennial grass
weeds. Any material that will kill
perennial grass weeds will also kill
your desirable perennial bluegrass or
fescue.
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Q: How do I pay?
A:
An invoice
is left on your door after each
application. Payment is due when you
receive the invoice. We have a simple
credit policy, NO PAY-NO SPRAY! No
further applications will be made until
charges for the previous applications
have been paid. It is important that you
keep your account current so that the
timing of our applications are not
disrupted by a past due account.
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Q: Why do you use more costly, slow release
Nitrogen while your competitors use cheaper,
fast release Nitrogen?
A:
By using a
slow release Nitrogen, your lawn receives
the following benefits:
-
Even
growth and color throughout the
season.
-
Helps
to avoid excessive surges of growth,
which increases mowing and reduces
the lawn's resistance to heat,
drought, and disease.
-
Prevents
burn (dehydration of the lawn during
hot, dry spells).
-
Keeps
the Nitrogen from leaching out of
the root zone.
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Q: Why do you apply dry, granular
insecticide?
A:
Insecticides
are more effective and long
lasting when applied as a granule rather than
a liquid.
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Q: Do you control fungus diseases?
A:
While not part of our
regular lawn application program, we do
offer active and preventative treatments
for fungus. Our lawn application
program is designed to increase your
lawn's resistance to diseases.
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Q: When should I reseed my lawn?
A:
The best
time to seed is from August 15th to
October 1st. Call your lawn applicator for
advice on the timing to avoid damaging
your new seed with weed control.
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Q: Should I aerate or verticut
my lawn?
A:
If you have
a thatch layer of more than 1/2 inch, or
your ground is compacted, we recommend
you aerate. We check your lawn's
thatch layer each summer and will notify
you if it should be aerated. Verticut is
recommended before seeding or to thin
Bermuda or Zoysia lawns.
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Q: Do I need to be at home when you make
applications?
A:
NO, an invoice
will be left on your door and a flag will
be placed in your yard.
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Q: Is grub control a part of your
regular program?
A:
Yes, grub control is
included with our 7 application program.
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Q: Do I need to sign a new agreement each
year?
A:
No, our
agreement continues year to year unless you notify
our office
in writing to cancel services.
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Q: Do I need a Winter fertilizer application?
A:
Yes, with
the usually mild climate in the winter,
a December or January fertilizer
application would be beneficial for your
lawn.
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